• Tackle Twill – polyester or rayon twill letters or numbers used for athletic teams.
• Tatami Stitch – running stitches used to cover large areas. Also called fill stitches.
• Tear Away Backing – a non-woven material placed under the fabric being embroidered to add stability to the fabric.
• Tension – proper adjustable machine thread tension is critical to quality embroidery.
• Tension Assembly – device that applies tension to the needle thread to form a stitch.
• Tensioner – mechanism that controls the tension on the needle thread.
• Thread – embroidery threads are commonly made from rayon, polyester, cotton and metallics, each with its own constructions and features. (Look for a future blog about Thread.)
• Thread Break Detector – a device that detects thread breakage, automatically stopping the machine. This allows the operator to rethread the needle and restart the machine. Thread that minimizes breakage optimizes stitching time.
• Thread Clippers – spring loaded scissors that clip thread and operate with just the thumb and forefinger.
• Tie In Stitches – small stitches used at the beginning of a sewing cycle to prevent the thread from pulling out of the embroidery.
• Tie Off Stitches – small stitches that “lock” the stitches in the fabric to prevent the stitches from unraveling when thread is trimmed.
• Topping – different materials that are hooped or placed on top of textured fabric prior to embroidery to provide a smooth surface for embroidery.  
• Trimmers – trimming device that cuts both the needle and bobbin threads before change in design of either location or color.
• Trimming – a part of the finishing process that involves trimming both sides of the embroidery, including jump stitches and backing.
• Underlay Stitches – stitches used to stabilize fabric to maximize quality of fine detailing. Variable Sizing – scale a design to different sizes.
• Verify – Sample sew-out of a new design to ensure that the pattern is correct.  Walking Stitch – also called running stitch—used to create an outline, underlay or fine detail formed between two points.

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• Registration – when all stitches and design elements line up, correct registration has been achieved.
• Repeat – repeating emblems or designs a fabric span.
• Rotate Pattern – rotation of a design in 90-degree increments counterclockwise.
• Running Stitch – stitch used to create an outline, underlay or fine detail formed between two points.
• Satin Stitch – formed by closely arranged zig-zag stitches commonly used for lettering and outlining.
• Scale – a parameter of the computer program parameter that changes the size of the design without changing the number of stitches.
• Scanning – a conversion of designs into a computer format that digitizes even the most primitive design.
• Short Stitch – digitizing technique to avoid bulky build-up of stitches in curves or corners.
• Specialty Fill – produces special fill stitch patterns with a relief, or motif design.
• Speed Control – sewing speed adjustment that varies according to the length of the stitch.
• SPI – stitches per inch, creating the density or number of satin stitches.
• SPM – stitches per minute, the running speed of the embroidery machine.
• Stabilizer – woven support material used during embroidery of 4 types: tear-away, cut-away, wash-away and Performance backing for Performance shirts. Also called backing.
• Stitch Density – the number of stitches used to form proper coverage of the pattern.
• Stitch Editing – digitizing feature that deletes stitches in a pattern.
• Stitchback – Sewing function that traces back through a design to repair skipped stitches and thread breaks.
• Stock Designs – generic digitized embroidery designs.

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• Needle – the device that forms stitches by carrying the thread through the fabric to interlock with a bobbin thread. Needles are available in various points and sizes, designed for the goods being embroidered.
• Needle Bar – the part of the machine that carries the needle up and down to form stitches.
• Needle Plate – located above the hook assembly of the machine, this metal plate has a hole in the center for the needle to reach the hook to form a stitch.
• Network – linking embroidery machines through a central computer and disk drive system.
• Origin – starting point of the embroidered design.
• Pantograph – the bar, rack or holder of the embroidery machine that moves the hoop to form the embroidery pattern.
• Paper Tape – paper or Mylar media containing coordinate information to control the pantograph movement.
•  Newer machines utilize computer disks instead of paper tapes.
• Pencil Rub – inexpensive sample of an embroidery design.
• Presser Foot – a metal ring around the needle that holds the fabric stationary until the hook point catches the thread loop formed by the needle; helps to minimize flagging and for loop formation.
• Pre-Tensioner – thread tension assembly that applies light tension to remove kinks in the thread prior to entering the main tensioner.
• Puckering – gathering in the fabric by the stitches causing loose hooping, incorrect density, incorrect thread tensions or insufficient backing.
• Punching – derived from old paper tape method, the process of converting artwork into a series of commands for the machine’s computer.
• Push and Pull Compensation – a degree of distortion digitally built into a design to compensate for push or pull on the fabric caused by the embroidery stitches.

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Lettering – computer generated embroidery of letters or words, also called “keyboard lettering.”

Locking Stitch – series of small stitches used to prevent unraveling. Also called “tie-in” or “tie-off.”

Lockstitch – stitch formed with needle and bobbin thread. Also referred to as ISO4915, stitch number 301.

Looping – defects on surface of embroidery usually caused by tension problems or skipped stitch. Typically occurs when polyester top thread has been improperly tensioned. Looping can also occur as the result of a skipped stitch.

Low Speed Function – setting that allows the machine to run at a lower speed than that set by the speed control knob.

Machine Language – codes and format used by different machine manufacturers, such as Barudan, Brother, Fortran, Happy, Marco, Meistergram, Melco, Pfaff, Stellar, Tajima, Toyota, Ultramatic, and ZSK.

Marking – marking of goods to help position frame and position the needle start points.

Mirror – program menu option that allows sewing of reverse imaging of a pattern.

Modular – machine system with many separate stitching heads or configurations of heads that are computer-controlled.

Monogram – embroidered design of one or more letters, usually the initials in a name. Moss Stitch – see chenille.

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Gang-Loading – techniques that allow multiple unit loading, providing embroidery in a single loading operation.
Gapping – when the fabric may be seen through the embroidery design. Also termed “grin through.”
Holding Fixtures – devices that hold or frame small or unusually shaped items.
Hook Assembly – holds the bobbin case in the machine, playing a vital role in stitch formation.
Hoop – device made from plastic, metal, or wood that tightly grips the fabric between an inner and outer ring and attaches to the machine’s pantograph for sewing.
Hooping – also called “framing,” the term for loading item to be embroidered into a hoop.
Hooping Board – ensures uniform placement of the hoop onto the material.
H Test – method of testing thread tension.
Interlock Stitch – two or more rows of overlapping satin stitches.
Jumbo Rotary Hook – rotary hook that holds a bobbin case with larger thread capacity than a standard hook.
Jump Stitch – movement of the machine without needle penetration commonly used to move from one point in a design to another.

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Design – stitches that create a pattern or monogram.
Digitize – computer-based method of converting artwork into a series of commands.
Disk Reader – a device that reads the digitized program that determines the embroidery machine movements.
Expanded Format – a design program that digitizes individual stitches for a specific size.
Fabric Grin Through – term that applies to fabric that is visible through the embroidery design. See also gapping.
Fill Stitches – one of the three most common stitches used in embroidery. (Run stitches and Satin stitches are the other two.) Generally used to cover large areas, fill stitches a flat look. Changing the angle, length and direction of the stitched pattern creates different fill patterns.
Finishing – processes that follow the completion of embroidery, including trimming loose threads, removing excess backing and topping, cleaning, pressing or steaming to remove wrinkles or hoop marks, and packing.
Flagging – motion of material during embroidery that is caused by improper hooping, improperly adjusted presser foot and/or improper fabric stabilization (wrong backing). Generally leads to skipped stitches and thread breakage. Also negatively impacts the appearance of the finished product (poor design registration).
Flat Embroidery – cut panels and patches of embroidery that is framed in hoops on a flat surface above the machine’s hook assembly.
Frame – device(s) that stabilizes the goods being embroidered and ensures the quality of end product. Various frame devices include clamps, vacuum devices, magnets and springs.
Framing Press — Machine used to aid the framing or hooping process.

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Appliqué – decoration or trimming cut from one piece of fabric and stitched to another to add dimension and texture.
Arm Machine – embroidery machine driven my single main shaft that has an arm of cylinder that used frames to embroider curve shaped items, such as caps.
Automatic Color Change – most machines have up to ten needles allowing the digitizer to program them to change colors automatically.
Backing – woven support material used during embroidery that comes in three types, including tear-away, cut-away and wash-away.
Bean-stitch – type of bolder stitch that outlines with three stitches back and forth.
Birdnesting – collection of thread between the goods being embroidered and the needle plate that causes breaks and sewing problems.
Bobbin – a spool that holds thread and forms stitches on the fabric underside.
Bobbin Case – assembly that applies tension to the bobbin thread while holding the bobbin in the machine.
Boring – open work incorporated into embroidery designs.
Bridge Machine – as opposed to an arm machine, this type has suspended heads on a bridge that provides a larger sewing field. Buckram – coarse fabric used to stabilize fabric for stitching.
Cap Frames – specializing frames that hold finished caps for embroidering.
Chainstitch – resembles a chain link formed with thread fed from bottom.
Check Spring – part of needle assembly that assist in controlling the needle for smoother stitching.
Chenille – type of embroidery that forms loop stitch on top of fabric with heavy yarn. Also called loop piling.
Column Stitch – Zigzag stitches that are used to create borders. Also called satin stitch.
Complex Fill – digitizing capability that creates voids while defining edges.
Condensed Format – the ability of a machine to change scale, density and stitch lengths in a design.
Cross-stitch – two stitches that cross at the center to form an X.  

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The resolution and speed of Direct to Garment inkjet printers have been improved greatly in the last decade. The majority of DTG printers are computer driven with software known as a RIP (Raster Image Processor). RIP software provides several benefits: (1) it allows the use of larger volumes of ink, (2) it generates a white “underbase” for dark shirts, and (3) it provides more precise color management with color profiles.

More advanced RIP software provides the ability to drive multiple printers from one computer, advanced job queuing, ink cost calculation and advanced preview of the file prior to printing. In addition to utilizing inkjet technology, DTG involves inkjet textile inks that are applied directly to the textile. These inks are absorbed by the fibers of the garment.

The primary advantages of DTG printing include precise images with non-contact technology, lowered set-up costs and fast turnaround time. The main disadvantage of DTG is equipment maintenance and the cost of ink, but these issues are improving continually. DTG printing is simple and economical on both light and dark garments. It requires less setup time, makes less mess, and is more cost-effective.

While DTG prints best on white garments of all material types, cotton works the best. However, polyester and polyester blend garments may also be used with great results. Once you move away from white shirts and into colored or dark garments, the print quality is very dependent on material makeup. The garment must be at least 60% cotton. 100% cotton allows for the white under base to be absorbed properly. The less cotton in the garment, the worse the print outcome will be on dark garments.

Print crisp, colorful, vibrant images directly onto cotton garments without the need for coated papers, or other limiting factors. If the item lays flat, it will print. What’s more, most inkjet DTG printers will handle common graphics software such as CorelDRAW®, Illustrator®, Photoshop®, and Quark®. Finally, DTG technology is idea for short or medium runs in full color textile printing.

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Tint – changing the color of an ink by adding another color to it.
Tonal Range – the difference between the lightest and darkest color of the image.
Transfer – term for indirect printing.
Transfer Adhesive – powdered adhesive that improves the adhesion of a transfer to a substrate.
Transfer Inks – special plastisol inks used to print cold peel and hot split transfers.
Underbase – thin coating of ink that acts as base for other colors being printed. Usually required when printing multi-colors on colored shirts, this process creates true colors and maintains opacity over dark fabric.
UV Inks – certain types of inks that will harden or cure when exposed to UV light.
Vector Art – digital art that uses continuous lines and shapes represented in mathematical algorithms.
Viscosity – the “thickness” or “thinness” of a particular ink.
Wash Test – laundering a printed garment to determine if the print is fully cured.
Water Based Ink – non-plastisol inks that can be air dried.
Wet-on-Wet Printing – printing consecutive ink colors without flash curing.

This is the end of our presentation of screen printing terms. Next, we will address embroidery terms.

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Reflective Ink – a special effect Plastisol ink with reflective elements.
Registration – lining up the screen image to the original art; also  separations on a printing press.
Resolution – the quality of an image as measured in DPI (Dots per inch).
Reverse – artwork in which the light and dark areas are inverted.
RIP – Raster Image Processing software designed to maximize film output. Screen – the platen (wooden or metal frame with tightly attached mesh for each color of the design.
Serigraphy – technical term for screen printing.
Sizing – chemical agent on fabrics that often burns off during curing.
Soft-Hand Extenders – ink additive that reduces opacity, often used on lighter colored shirts, producing a soft feel to the print.
Solvent – liquid that dissolves a solid.
Solvent Based Inks – acrylic, UV and epoxy based inks, typically used for the printing of hard goods and other non-textiles.
Spot And Dot – combination of spot color printing and halftones.
Stencil – portion of screen containing the image to be printed.
Stretch Test – stretching a garment to see if the ink cracks, used to check for proper curing of ink.
Substrate – the item that is being printed on; also the side of the screen that comes in contact with the item being printed.  

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